Start nailing at one end and adjust the nosing as you move down its length so it's perfectly flush along the top of the shelf. With your dimensions in hand, you are ready to cut the top, sides, and interior shelves out of 3/4 birch plywood. To make sure these nosing pieces will fit tightly between the side trim, hold the 1x trim against the front of the shelves and butted to one side. Mark the edge to be cut.Without changing the compass setting, rest the compass' metal point on the edge where the level was. Mark the back of each piece where it meets the other side. Once you get home, you can use a circular saw to cut these narrower pieces to length. Hold the trim over a bookcase leg, tight against the wall. Finally paint, wax, or polyurethane the entire bookcase. After ripping the pieces, you'll need to crosscut the tops to length. Check the bookcase for level. Drill countersunk pilot holes along the edges of the bookcase top — two into each support and one every 8 to 10 inches along the hanging strip. Build open shelving with a stained-glass accent to open up the kitchen space while adding a decorative element. Draw another 3/4” strip at the location of every shelf you intend to put in the unit. Without changing that setting, hold the metal point against the wall and the pencil point on the trim and run the compass the entire length of the trim to make the scribe line. Rest its metal point on the wall and the pencil point on the spot where you want the edge of the trim to land on the cabinet. Before you cut and assemble any parts, sand all the wood. Cut the poplar to the same dimensions as the exterior panels using the miter saw. Use a miter saw to cut the top, side panels and interior shelves to the appropriate length. Since the birch plywood comes in 4 x 8 sheets, it will be easiest to use a table saw to rip down the lumber to your desired width. Your trim must be at least this wide. (Cutting grooves in a single board would compromise its strength.) Use a framing square to transfer the shelf marks from one board to the other. Glue and nail the supports to the legs: Starting at the bottom of one leg, squeeze an S-shaped bead of glue up to the first layout line. Plywood that has a hardwood veneer is not only less expensive but in many cases stronger than solid softwoods like pine. Once the whole piece is plumb and level, tap shims around the bookcase anywhere there is a gap against the wall to make sure the entire frame is tight in the opening. Lay both legs on a table, butted evenly next to each other. 4. Allow 24 hours for the wood glue to fully dry, and then sand it smooth and fill the nail holes with paintable or stainable wood putty. The angles should be joined with 45-degree angle cuts for a smooth, tailored look. Get video instructions about kitchens, bathrooms, remodeling, flooring, painting and more. The bookcase has a kickplate to cover the space under the bottom shelf, so the lowest supports need to be recessed. Attach it with two 6d finish nails at each of the supports and the center nailer. Stain or prime it and allow it to dry. Add recessed shelving to the kitchen for a stylish way to store a variety of kitchen objects. Follow these step-by-step instructions for building a bookcase to add attractive storage space to any room of your home. Place a level on each of the shelves. Traditionally, built-in bookcases are made with solid wood boards, carefully routed to make tight grooves that accept… Measure the height of the space where the bookcase will go. Most lumberyards stock the basics: birch, maple, and oak veneer plywoods. Use ½ trim to finish the sides and top of the bookcase. Tack it with 6d nails. Add shims, as needed. Then place a plywood scrap on edge at each line and mark the width of each shelf. But when the dust (and fiberglass) settles, you'll enjoy a fatter bank account and more comfortable indoor temps year-round. If your dimensions are too large to be cut on a miter saw, use a table saw, but take great care to make the cuts as clean as possible. It may help to make a simple diagram of the bookcase you’re about to make, noting the dimensions for each part. Apply glue to the front of the shelf. The miter saw will make a cleaner, more controlled cut than the table saw, and is a better choice for smaller pieces of lumber. Hold one leg against the wall and mark where you'd like the bottom of each shelf to fall. Cut the Plywood Ends. If your books and photographs are still displayed on a couple of boards held up by a pile of bricks, here's some good news: It doesn't require a master carpenter, a workshop full of tools, and thousands of dollars to add built-in bookcases to your home. Glue and screw the top in place, above. With the unit built, it’s time to finish it off by covering the rough plywood edges with nice finished piece of 1-1/4" poplar. Most yards will make the cuts for a dollar or so each. Be sure to keep both points level the entire time. Cut trim to fit along the top; glue and nail it in place. Scribe the edge to be cut. Nail through the shelf into the nailer's top edge with 6d finish nails. Set all the nail heads and fill the holes with putty or a wax pencil to match the color of the stained wood. Using a nail gun to attach the wooden frames together to construct the bookcase in the furniture project. Cut two bookcase legs to this measurement from the ripped-down plywood, Measure the width of your space in three places. Hold the trim against the wall with a level on one edge, and adjust the trim until it's plumb and still touching the wall. Cut it to length 1½ inches shorter than the shelves. But it's not that difficult, once the cabinet is plumb and fastened in place. Continue attaching supports in this manner, left, until the top supports are in place, finishing ¾ inch from the top edge. With your dimensions in hand, you are ready to cut the top, sides, and interior shelves out of 3/4” birch plywood.