When you’re finished tracing, simply remove the drawing and graphite paper. To use Tracing Paper, the source and clone documents must be the same size. I use tracing paper vs another type of paper for two reasons. How to use transfer paper: When Tracing Paper is in use, you see a faded-out version of the clone source, as if it were displayed under real tracing paper on top of a light box. You will use a ballpoint pen (ideally one with no ink in case you puncture the tracing paper as you work) or a stylus. Make any necessary alterations on the tracing paper for a custom fit. A sheet of graphite paper can be used many times over so one sheet goes a long way. Anyone can use graphite paper to "trace" an image, but what happens after that (and even the tracing itself) depends upon the skill level of the artist. First, it is thin enough that it works very very well with the transfer paper. 3. Lay out the original pattern onto a table. Trace over the original pattern along the pattern marking lines underneath. Use wax-free tracing paper to make sewing patterns. If you make a mistake, the tracing paper can be wiped off. One warning: it is easy to create smudges on your paper where you don’t want them. I prefer the white transfer paper from Loew Cornell. Lift off the tracing paper and cut out with scissors. Choose a tracing paper that is a distinctly different color than your fabric, otherwise your won't be able to see your work! More importantly, no one can create the vision that you see inside your head - so it's up to you to put that brush to canvas and show the world what you see! Place it colored side down against your fabric and under the pattern. Use a pencil (or even a pen) to trace the drawing onto the working surface. As you trace, brush strokes appear at 50% opacity. Carefully use your tracing wheel to mark along the pattern. Tape the tracing paper onto the pattern at the corners.